Writing about food in a starving nation

In journalism, as in any other profession, it is important for one to find his/her niche. Some journalists venture into citizen, investigative or alternative journalism, others in sports or photojournalism. Food writing, on the other hand, is hardly considered real journalism and food stories seldom make it to the headlines.

Having grown up in a family that loves to cook, it has always been my ambition to become a food writer. However, this ambition has always been accompanied by a moral dilemma: How do you write about food in a starving nation? Awarding stars to restaurants or discovering new recipes for coconut milk while almost half of the world suffers from hunger is just something I cannot not stomach.

According to the latest Social Weather Station survey, some 3.8 million Filipino families experience involuntary hunger. This statistic is enough to discourage any aspiring food writer. But from another perspective, this should be the reason for more journalists and editors to include food as a regular part of news.

Many social, political, and environmental issues involve food. It is the responsibility of journalists not only to inform readers of current events but also to empower citizens to initiate change.

Food is one of the most effective ways through which citizens can change public policies. Sure, they can write to government officials about their grievances however this is often proves to be a lengthy and unsatisfying process. Food, on the other hand, is something on which we have a direct impact. We cast consumer votes every time we buy food products. If we do not approve of how certain foods are produced, making a statement is as simple as boycotting their products.

Many people complain about grocery food products having so many additives. Scientific findings have linked some chemical preservatives to certain cancers. The reason why there is a proliferation of such unhealthy food products is because there is a market for it.

As a child, my father and I had a weekly ritual of visiting Farmer's Market in Cubao to buy ingredients for our chosen culinary creation. We would be there before the break of dawn, weaving through the crowd of buyers and vendors boasting of the freshest four-foot sword fish and vegetables by the sack. By six o'clock, some stalls would have depleted their stock. Today, sellers hawk their produce until the late afternoon. Households opt to purchase frozen food from groceries than make trips to the market. Even traditional Filipino dishes like adobo, sinigang and kare-kare no longer require hours in the kitchen. With the help of Mang Tomas and Mama Sita, cooking is a breeze.

Pressure for suppliers to provide healthier yet affordable food options will ultimately come from the consumers.

They say the way to a man's heart is through his stomach. Politicians are one of the few people who realize the wisdom in this saying. They persuade citizens to elect them into office by promising to eradicate hunger and poverty. After all, how many of us can say no to food? Unfortunately, many government officials end their terms without fulfilling their promises. Indeed, the way to a man's vote is through his stomach.

Perhaps it is time voters play closer attention to political platforms of candidates when it comes to addressing the issue of hunger.

The agricultural sector employs 35% of the country's labor force but accounts for only 20% of our gross domestic product. This discrepancy has been going on for several administrations yet no agrarian reform law has effectively addressed the issue of low agricultural productivity, the main reason why most of our farmers are poor. More than anything else, I believe this is a moral issue. Unless those in power have the conscience to address this problem, 35% of our fellow Filipinos are bound to go hungry. And because our rice supply depends on farming productivity, it is no surprise if the rest of country starves because of the government's unwillingness to pay attention to the needs of peasant farmers.

There is much buzz around the world about global warming. Western countries have spent billions of dollars on technology built to help fight global warming and lessen the harmful effects of climate change. Although the Philippines cannot afford such technology, this does not mean we cannot make a difference.

By simply supporting local food products, which travel shorter distances compared to imported products, we not only significantly decrease our carbon footprint but also provide more jobs for Filipinos. By supporting environmentally friendly food production processes and sustainable farming techniques, we are providing food security for future generations.

Who says all food stories are soft news? Everyone needs to eat. Food will always be relevant and food issues timely. Knowing how people can use food to bring change for the better, it is up to journalists and editors to start including food issues in news publications.

Anyone can make a difference, regardless of profession. Even food writers, with the power of the pen, have the power to make readers realize just how influential they can be.